Imperfect Cat Eyeliner Is the Creative New Makeup Trend You Need to Try

When it comes to the Paris fashion calendar, Dior is always one of the most anticipated shows. The iconic French house has been presenting its beautifully romantic collections for over seven decades and often in dramatic settings. For spring 2019, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by dance and collaborated with choreographer Sharon Eyal whose dancers performed alongside the models as they walked the runway. The show took place on the grounds of the Longchamp racecourse in a site-specific installation.

A majority of the models came down the runway with their skin glowing with black liner smudged underneath their eyes, which makeup artist Peter Philips described as looking like “a bit of leftover makeup after a dance rehearsal or performance.” Philips prepped the skin with Dior Capture Youth Glow Booster Age-Delay Illuminating Serum, then matched the models’ skin tones with Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation, then finished with Diorshow Khôl in Black along the lower waterlines, stretching it to the inner and outer corners of the eyes to achieve that lived-in liner look.

For ten of the models, Phillips used Diorshow Waterproof Pro Liner in Black to draw abstract motifs on the side of the eyes that extended up towards the temples — an element that was inspired by Eyal’s own makeup.

“Eyal is the choreographer for the show and when Maria Grazia saw her she said ‘I think she has a tattoo on her face’ and I thought it sounded very intriguing,” Philips said of the inspiration for the inky whorls. Thing is, they weren't actually tattoos, but rather eye makeup that Eyal applied with a few swirls of liner. It imbued a sense of structured carefreeness that is characteristic of Eyal's work, and something Philips tried to evoke in the makeup for the show.

“I saw her applying her makeup and it was very strange as a makeup artist to see somebody who applies makeup as a choreographer because she doesn’t look at how her makeup is going to look like. She takes a crayon or a pen and she makes a gesture and the trace she leaves is her makeup and it’s quite poetic,” Philips explained.

He paid homage to Eyal’s simple hand gestures with an imbalanced graphic eye, which featured a different design on each model. Eyebrows were slightly enhanced and lashes were gently curled.

As for the hair, hairstylist Guido wrapped the hair around the head, folding and tucking in the ends, a detail that you could only see when the models' exited the runway. Each model wore a different headband — some narrow and elastic, some thick and knit — and the hair was sprayed with Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Hairspray to create a simple sleek silhouette that evoked how a dancer might wear their hair during a performance.

“It’s dance-like in a contemporary, experimental kind of way like Pina Bausch,” Guido said of the hair. “It’s a nod to dance and to all the dancers who would wrap their hair in different ways and then use a band.”

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